Advertisements

4xD: But hey Mr Grim, I wanna’ game my dungeon in 15mm….

5 Oct

DDDDD

So, outside of the Grim’s Dungeons of Doom tutorials, I think I needed to have yet another sub-set of brain fart articles to cover other aspects from time to time, so here is 4xD (which stands for Dungeon developments, discourse and dialogue) in which i’ll be babbling on about my gameworld Plexus (which I wouldn’t mind developing into something cool) as well as future dungeons of doom related PDFs I’m making, and other similar themed stuff I’m planning that doesn’t fit into the main articles.

Today I want to address 15mm dungeons and just how we can adapt these techniques to suit that scale rather than the usual 28mm.

To be honest, I mainly game in 15mm and not 28mm, unless it’s WFB I don’t really have any minis in that size beyond that, so when I began this, I seriously considered going 15mm as well. I do have quite a few 15mm fantasy adventurers, but were lacking on monsters, so it was kind of a reversed 28mm situation (Where as I have plenty of monsters, yet hardly any adventurers) What swung the decision in the end was the sheer scope and availability of fantasy minis in the scale, otherwise I’d have gone smaller just for space saving.

Anyway, but just how many of these techniques I’ve been detailing? So enough of my rambling, and lets shift scale.

DSCF5200

DUNGEON FLOORS- There is absolutely no reason why the exact same technique can’t be used. Other textured  paper is available with smaller mosaic squares that would be more akin to 15mm flagstones but I don’t see why the same dungeon flooring could not be used. Another idea would be to acquire some nice cheap or free floorplans in PDF form and shrink them down 50%-65%

DSCF5344

WALL SECTIONS- The same goes with the wall sections, only with slight modification. I would recommend that the only thing that i’d do different is when detailing the texture with card block designs, is that they would scale more if the brick design was shrunk by half. Ok, this would take a little longer, but not that much. Some might also prefer to use a smaller dimension of wood pieces, although I think that this would not be essential. If you don’t want the wood method for your dungeon, consider getting some dungeon building paperkit PDFs and shrinking them by the same percent as the flooring, or for free on the web. There are a good selection that would fit on this site, check the Resources section for lists of free 3D dungeons and similar.

DSCF5472

DOORS– The chunky doors are easily done by simply shrinking the door size down only and keeping the rest of the building as is, also don’t forget that 15mm can be found for sale by several mini companies, so that’s an option too without much outlay. Opening doors like in the article are still do-able but a little fiddly, as with anything if you shrink the size. Maybe if there’s a call for it, i’ll do a tutorial for it, however you’ll nee to let me know if thats what you want!

DSCF5537

FURNITURE- It’s very difficult to get the same level of detail that you get at 28mm, but not impossible either. If you aren’t ready to micro the techniques I’ve been going on about, you can always buy the dressings in from mini companies if you look around, although this can be hit and miss. Making stuff yourself helps eradicate the frustration factor with buying, only to replace it with more frustration building it! But, hold on, there need be no angst if you think carefully. Beds are easily sorted by shrinking the sizes (use 1 lolly stick wide for single beds, 2 for double beds etc) tables, again shorten the lengths and widths (use thick card as an alternative if it makes it easier) Shelves are something more intricate, swap lolly sticks for thick card, use smaller beads and adornment, sure it’s tricky, but not hard to do. For the books on the shelves, use thinner card too for scale. Books can also be made from the books & scrolls PDF, by printing the kit out at about 50-65% (your choice) and using thin card instead of EVA foam. opening books from the kit may be trickier….

DSCF5729

CAVERN WALLS, CORNERS, DOORWAYS AND FEATURESCavern walls using expanding foam are easily done as is, or simply change the dimensions to create smaller walls of your desired height/width. It’s exactly the same with the corners and doorways, use as is or create them smaller to suit. Cavern features need no changes, just create them smaller if you need to, otherwise make as normal.

Dungeon Encounters 3

MINIATURES- Just a quick mention about 15mm minis. There are plenty of great companies who produce suitable minis for 15mm dungeon crawling. The only downfall is that you’ll really need to shop around to get the diversity needed for a proper old skool feel. Classic dungeon monsters are hard to find in 15mm, but more and more manufacturers are bringing out these classic creatures. Checkout other scales such as 10mm, 20mm and 28mm for minis that will suit. Pendraken do some cool dungeon monsters that fit well with 15mm. Don’t forget other great manufacturers to get your usual fantasy races and mosters, 15mm.co.uk, Irregular, splintered light, magister militum to name but a few. Adventurers can be plucked from all manner of historical lines at great prices much cheaper than their fantasy couterparts. Shopping around is key.

So, capping off this article, where ever possible from now on I’ll attempt to throw in some 15mm building tips too, for those of you who want to go 15mm (rather than the 28mm I’ve been detailing here). If you would like the odd 15mm dungeon article let me know in the comments about your opinions on the subject and if you’d like to see a few 15mm articles and I might oblige!

Advertisements

2 Responses to “4xD: But hey Mr Grim, I wanna’ game my dungeon in 15mm….”

  1. daggerandbrush October 8, 2015 at 10:57 pm #

    Thank you for this overview. I think 15mm gives you the option to really have an expansive dungeon layout on the table. I do enjoy the opportunity to have an easier time with detailing in 28mm though. So best is to have two dungeons for different situations. 😉

    Like

    • grimace73 October 9, 2015 at 7:59 am #

      Yes, I totally agree. Although I usually prefer 15mm over 28, I’m finding that its been a hell of a lot easier to get a good level of detail compared to 15. I just wanted to add some notes on some of the builds for the 15mm crowd s lots of the same techniques can easily be adapted/shrunk to suit! 😉

      Like

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: